The Right Maintenance Steps (Part II)

Note to Reader 1: So we’ve learned from the previous post that it’s important to keep your ride spick and span during the winter season and that you need to have a great set of snow tires available for your trips around town… In this follow-up post, we’ll be discussing other maintenance tips. Some of which are winter-specific, and other helpful reminders that you should note down and conduct even after the winter season. So, without further ado, I present to you Part II of “Winter Reminders for Every Driver: The Right Maintenance Steps”.

Tip # 3: Keep Your Headlights Clean and Snow-Free As Much As Possible, Even If You Don’t Think You’ll Be Using Them. During the winter season, days generally become shorter. If it’s snowing pretty bad in your area, then you can expect inches of snow to cling to your headlights, limiting your driving visibility greatly. One of the downsides of snowy weather is how your surroundings can become dark as night in a matter of hours—sometimes even just minutes! You’re driving and just minutes after light snow coats your hood, it becomes more and more difficult to see oncoming vehicles. And we all know how difficult it is to trust your brakes when your vehicle is crawling through icy streets. This is why it pays to have fully-functional headlights which you can use during poor visibility conditions. (Fog lights are generally used during the winter, but it pays to have an awesome pair of headlights too.)

Another reason why it pays to clean out your headlights before you travel is that it helps prevent the buildup of snow, sand, salt, and other debris which could cause long-term damage to your headlights. These harmful agents can easily diminish the effectiveness of your headlights in the long run, requiring you to replace both headlight assemblies come spring. Save more by keeping your headlights in tiptop condition instead.

One way you can resist the temptation of ignoring headlight-maintenance during winter is by bringing out your shop rags and towels while you’re still at home. This way, you’ll be reminded to wipe the thin sheet of ice coating your tail lights before you pull off the driveway every morning. Another trick that works for me is to have my squeegee and towel resting on the hood—that way I’ll have zero excuses when it comes to cleaning my headlights.

Tip #4: Try to Keep your Gas Tank Full as Often as Possible. I wouldn’t want to scare you or anything, but seriously, winter is the worst time to run out of gas in the middle of nowhere or miles away from civilization. While summer is the time to hitchhike or walk to the nearest gas station to get some gas for your ride, fewer vehicles are out during the winter season. Unless you’d like to get hypothermia walking to a fuel station that’s miles away from where you’re parked, or waiting in your car with only the heat of your engine keeping your blood passably fluid, I suggest you keep things safe by keeping your fuel tank close to full as often as possible.

Another reminder, if you do get stranded due to engine failure, please don’t keep your engine running and sleep in the confines of your locked and weatherproof car. If you happen to have exhaust leaks, carbon monoxide may seep in—and we all know how carbon monoxide tends to have fatal side effects. I mean, why else would movie stars use it to “off” themselves, right?

Again, avoid this scenario altogether by keeping your tank filled with gas.

Tip #5: Check your Tires for Signs of Wear and Regularly Inspect Your Tire Pressure Levels. Unless you’re driving with brand new snow tires, it’s crucial that you keep your old snow tires in tiptop condition. Now, if snow isn’t really a problem in your area, it still pays to keep your regular tires in great working order. Remember the difference between getting to your destination of choice safely and colliding with an immovable tree or road sign during the course of your travels would have to be your ability to stop completely before collision. Stopping quickly and efficiently requires you to have more than a dependable braking system, it requires excellent tire traction. Check your tire treads to see if your tires are in need of replacing. Also check your wheel alignment—heavy inside wear or outside wear indicates misaligned tires, which is something that you need to address immediately.

Also keep in mind that it’s harder to control your vehicle during winter time, so what you may consider as “normal” tire wear during summer may be disastrous come winter season. According to the National Transportation Safety Board, you need to check each tire’s tread depth to find out if it’s time to replace your worn tires. Usually you need 2/32” of tread depth at the minimum to ensure that all your winter travels are going to be safe. I say, if you notice excessive wear on some parts of your tires—even if not all areas have less than 2/32”, replace your tires immediately. It’s one of the instances where it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Another tire-related tip that you need to keep in mind is periodically inspecting your tire pressure levels. Some people say that cold weather tends to decrease your tire pressure, so once in a while, do take the time to check each of your tires to see which ones are in need of a little more air. Remember, before you pump your tires to the maximum tire pressure allowable, check your tire pressure levels first! Pumping too much air into your tires can result to less traction, which really isn’t much better than driving soft tires.

To find out the right tire pressure levels for your ride, consult your owner’s manual or ask your local mechanic.
Lastly, do make it a point to carry a spare tire along each time you travel. Back that up with a reliable jack, your toolbox, and your owner’s manual in case you ever need a roadside tire change. Because snowy weather tends to affect your driving visibility, it makes it harder for you to spot sharp rocks or debris along the road. In case you end up with a flat, at least you have all the tools you need to install your spare tire.

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Winter Car Care and Auto Maintenance Tips

I’d like to start this multi-entry post with basic car maintenance tips and reminders that are generally winter-specific. So without further ado…onto the first tip!

Tip #1: Don’t Forget to Use Snow Tires. If you really need to drive during the snowy weather—meaning your boss won’t let you work from home or you need to travel to your relatives’ place out of town—play it safe by investing in great snow tires. Snow tires help increase traction, making your travels a lot faster and safer. And yes, while having to remount and balance your snow tires every single year can be such a pain in the neck, if you’ve ever driven sans snow tires through icy roads (which I seriously don’t recommend!), you’ll know that these specialized tires can mean the difference between a safe trip and a fatal accident. Be safe and use snow tires.

But if you’re really feeling incredibly lazy, or if you really hate having to remount and rebalance these tires each winter, then one way you can save time (but not money) is by getting your vehicle four steel rims. Take your snow tires and permanently mount them onto the steel rims. This should make it easier for you to install your snow tires, and later remove them when spring comes.

Now I understand that with the recent economic troubles we’re facing, it may be harder for most of us to purchase complete sets of winter tires. While it’s still best to have all four mounted on your car, if you can’t buy four snow tires and you have a two-wheel drive (front wheel drive or rear wheel drive), then two would usually do. Mount your snow tires on the wheels that are directly driven by your vehicle’s engine. If you have an “all-wheel-drive” on your hands, then I’m sorry to say that you need to have FOUR snow tires on your car.

If you don’t have space in your garage for your regular tires, then ask your local garage if they could store your regular tires throughout the winter season. Most tire shops will also charge a small fee for storage. Once winter is done, you can also ask them to store your snow tires until the next Thanksgiving.

Tip #2: Conduct Complete and Thorough Auto Cleaning, And Try to Keep Your Vehicle as Clean As You Can After. The first day you spot snow on the roads or on your roof, make it a point to take the time to clean your car completely (both inside and out!). It’s not just for aesthetic purposes, it’s also to help you keep your driving visibility at its best during the ultra-cold season. Since mirrors have a tendency to fog, keep all your glass surfaces as transparent and clear as possible by scraping away the buildup of snow or ice using an ice scraper or a snowbrush. Your auto lights should also be kept as snow-free as possible. So take the time to remove all traces of ice on your ride at least once a week.

Now that your auto lights and mirrors are snow-free, your work is done, right? Nope! There’s more work to be done, and for good reason. Remove snow from the rest of your ride. You’re probably wondering why you need to clean your ride when all that’s important are your lights and mirrors… well, let’s just say that if you happen to have snow piling up on your roof, sludge could easily make its way down your windshield after you hit the brakes—obscuring your vision and possibly even causing you to collide with an oncoming car. Some states also require vehicles to be ice-free during winter… so you can avoid a ticket by keeping your car as clean as you can all season long.

**Note: The second picture shows a snow tire.

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The Right Maintenance Steps (Part I)

Winter’s here! And for most of us, it’s sure to be a white Christmas. This may not be the happiest Christmas for everyone, what with all the problems most of us are facing, but the best way to somewhat enjoy the holidays is to make the best out of what we still have—for some good health, for others a great family, others still excellent friends, and I’m hoping that you, like me, are still thankful that you have a car to drive to town with.

For me, the best thing about winter is snow. I usually stay over at my sister’s place with the rest of my family to celebrate the holidays with them. Snow is almost-always present especially during the latter parts of December. So I have to remember to take extra-care of my vehicle and to drive really slowly, or to not drive at all when the streets are icy.

One of the most amusing driving reminders I’ve ever gotten from a close friend is that: “If the roads are wet, drive like it’s snowing. If the streets have snow, then drive like they’re icy. And if the roads are icy, then don’t drive at all.” The cool thing about this tip is that it’s actually a great way to avoid accidents! And while this tip doesn’t just apply to the winter season, it’s more recommended during the colder parts of the year.

We all know that during winter, starting your car is generally harder than usual. Especially if you park it overnight outside your garage where snow can make a car-cicle out of your ride. During winter, inspecting and repairing your vehicle also becomes ten times harder than normal, especially if you don’t have enough room in your garage. When your garage is too small, you’ll have to conduct your auto-check outside your house—and the next thing you’ll know, you’re knee-deep in freezing snow with little or absolutely no access to your chassis components. Car care also becomes a problem, because no amount of outdoor heating methods could prevent the water you use to clean your vehicle from turning into ice upon contact. One way you can keep your ride well-prepared for the winter season is by conducting all the auto checks and maintenance processes before snow falls.

To complete your winter auto checklist, I’ve compiled some of the best tips I’ve gotten in all my years of driving and repairing automobiles. Let’s start this multi-post topic with regular and winter-specific auto maintenance steps.

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Starting Problems of Jeep Cherokee

1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport

Why would your Jeep Cherokee not start when it is not that old yet?

Jeep Cherokee is in fact one of the most dependable compact sport utility vehicles in the market today. For this reason, you would really find it very difficult to accept that your 1997 Cherokee model will have starting problems at such an early stage. Is there something wrong with one of your Truck Parts?

Picture this scenario. Four months after you bought your Jeep Cherokee, you experienced problem in starting the vehicle. While working on the jeep brakes and leaving the lights on for a time, the battery of your jeep died.

Usually, when such is the case, vehicle owners are prompted to take the battery and have it tested right away. Even if the battery is only a year old, there is a big possibility for this problem to occur.

What are the Signs?

Of course, your jeep battery did not just die without a problem. Even before a total breakdown, your jeep will show signs that there is indeed something wrong with it. Here are the things you must check on:

Do you have a hard time starting your Jeep Cherokee? Is it slow to start? Does it take more than five seconds to start?
Does your jeep lights dim whenever you try to start the jeep?
Does your jeep make a strange sound whenever you try to start it? Is there a snapping sound?
Are the fixed radio stations removed whenever you try to start the jeep?
HAVE YOU CHECKED THESE ESSENTIAL AUTO PARTS?

What to Do?

If your answers to all the questions above are mostly YES, then you need to do something to prevent possible full collapse of your Jeep Cherokee’s battery. The best thing that you can do is have your jeep undergo a starter test because it is really possible that the amount of current obtained by the starter of your jeep is actually greater than the amount that the battery can provide. So you have to check whether or not your starter is getting just the right amount of current. The ideal starter current draw is in fact 125 to 200 amps.

In addition, check on the size of your Jeep Cherokee’s battery. Yes, even the size of the battery matters. It should be, at any rate, 550 CCA.

It is also important to make certain that the battery stations are always fixed and uncontaminated.

You also need to check the charging system of your Jeep Cherokee. The ideal current released must be approximately 75 amps at 1250 rpm or 90 amps at 1250 rpm.

Even if your battery looks fine on the outside, it does not mean that nothing is wrong with it. There might be a break inside the system. There are times when the link between the batt post and the batt plates rupture. This breakage causes an irregular problem when it comes to starting your Jeep Cherokee. So, examine most especially the internal part of your battery.

Your Jeep Cherokee does not have any supernatural power, so don’t expect it to work perfectly throughout its existence. Even if it’s made of tough jeep components, it will develop certain defects in the long run. So, the only ways to keep it running efficiently are good jeep maintenance, early detection of problems, and immediate repair.

Go here for Jeep Discount Auto Parts and see what you can add to your Jeep.

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Ignition Key Refuses to Turn

lthough this problem is pretty rare, if you do encounter this situation, then it’s best that you know how to address this auto issue as soon as possible. If your ignition key refuses to turn, don’t panic just yet and stop yourself from calling a tow truck right away. It’s highly probable that the problem is pretty minor.

First, are you sure you’re using the right key? If you own more than one automobile, then chances are you have a single key chain that houses all your car keys. A few years ago, my cousin called me up to tell me that her ignition won’t turn. I hurried over to her house only to find out, to my embarrassment and hers, that she was using her Chevy’s key for her Camry. While this mistake is pretty rare, it’s very much understandable, especially when you’re running late for something important.

If you have the right key but it won’t insert completely then inspect your key for signs of breakage. If you try turning your key when it’s not seated firmly, then it’s not going to turn. If you can’t insert the key fully, then chances are there is something inside your ignition switch that is obstructing your key’s movement. If you broke your key elsewhere then a missing tooth should stop it from turning as well. Locate a spare key and try using that instead.

Check if you have the right gear setting. As I mentioned in my previous post, most vehicles require your auto to be in Neutral or Park for it to start.

If your steering wheel is locked, then try to move the key into the On position and move your steering wheel to unlock it before starting your vehicle. Some ignitions and steering wheel columns lock in a precise manner that requires you to first “unlock” the wheel before you can start your car. If you can’t figure out how to unlock your steering wheel, consult your owner’s manual first.


If none of these steps work, then your auto problem may have something to do with how your auto is parked. Some ignitions lock up when your tires are turned a certain way or when they’re jammed against the curb. If you think this might be your problem, then follow these steps:

Step #1: Shift into the right gear. Park for automatic transmissions and Neutral for manual.

Step #2: Set the parking/hand brake. This would prevent your car from suddenly moving while you try to unlock your ignition.

Step #3: Once you’ve secured everything, give your steering wheel a hard yank. Not too hard though, because you might just end up damaging your auto’s steering mechanism. Give it a firm yank in the opposite direction of where your wheels are turned. This should also free up a locked steering wheel.

Step #4: Release or disengage your hand brake and try turning your steering wheel. If your steering wheel turns easily, then you’ve got the green light to try starting your car again.

Step #5: Try turning your ignition key.

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Flushing your Vehicle’s Cooling System

The Importance of your Vehicle’s Heating and Cooling System

Beyond the comforts offered by being able to control the temperature inside your vehicle, your auto’s heating and cooling systems are necessary in preventing your ride from breaking down due to incredibly high operating temperatures.

Checking your auto’s cooling and heating systems is particularly crucial in the weeks preceding the subfreezing winter season and the sweltering heat of summer. But it’s more advisable that you check these systems every time you conduct a routine car check-up or you engage in basic vehicle maintenance.

Every time you drive, your radiator uses up coolant and water mixture to help lower the temperatures in your vehicle’s engine system. The longer and the faster you drive, the bigger the stress on your engine, allowing temperatures to skyrocket to incredible heights leading to the increase of the likelihood of overheating. Because of the coolant’s crucial role in maintaining your engine’s efficiency, you need to keep your ride equipped with the right coolant mixture (pretty much the same way you’d pick out the right type of gas for your car).

Coolant, like all the other fluids used by your vehicle, has a tendency to break down over time. This is why you need to replace your coolant mixture once in a while. When the coolant breaks down, more stress is placed on your radiator and your engine begins to run hotter than normal. Gunk and mineral deposits also build up under your vehicle’s hood, effectively reducing your vehicle’s overall performance. Prolonged use of bad coolant can also result to radiator damage, requiring you to replace your radiator sooner than you actually have to.


How Often Do You Need to Flush Out Your Cooling System?


The frequency required by your vehicle may depend on the type of auto you own and the weather conditions. If you live in an area that has moderate climates, then you can flush out your vehicle’s cooling system once a year. If, however, you live in an area known for its harsh winters and/or sizzling summers, then you may need to change your coolant mixture twice a year—at the start of summer and at the start of winter. Browse through your owner’s manual for more information on this matter.

The following are some steps on how you can flush out your vehicle’s cooling system.

Materials:
a large container (or several large containers)
radiator cleaning fluid or coolant cleaning system
fresh coolant

Step 1: Wait until you have a cool engine. If you’ve been driving, then it’s always best (not to mention safer) to wait for your engine to cool down before you start working under your vehicle’s hood.

Step 2: Prop up your hood. Again, for this step, make sure that you’ve turned off your vehicle’s engine. It’s pretty much the same way you’d want to turn off your computer, or any other electrical gadget for that matter, before you start tinkering with its components.

Step 3: Find your radiator pressure cap and release it. Do exercise a lot of caution when doing this. If your car has been running for a bit before you prop up your hood, even if your engine is already cool, there’s a chance that pressure build-up has occurred under your radiator pressure cap. When you release the cap hastily, the cap and the radiator content might just fly off. Avoid this scenario by being extra-careful.

Step 4: Look for the valve or petcock that will let you drain your radiator. If you’re unfamiliar with this auto part, then I highly suggest consulting your owner’s manual or any other supplementing manual as reference.

Step 5: Take your empty container and put it directly under the petcock or the valve. The empty container(s) will catch the draining fluid that will come out of your radiator.

Step 6: Release the petcock or the valve. Coolant should drain completely into your container. Let the coolant drain completely.

Step 7: After emptying your radiator, close your petcock or valve and remove the container.

Step 8: Fill up your radiator with water. Take note: not water-coolant mixture, just plain water. Don’t replace your radiator cap just yet.

Step 9: Start your engine. Let your engine idle for a bit as you add your coolant cleanser or radiator cleaning fluid into your radiator. Depending on the instructions or the time specified by the manufacturer of your cleanser, you may need to let your vehicle idle for around 20 or even 30 minutes.

Step 10: Turn off your engine. Let your engine sit until it cools down completely.

Step 11: Drain the fluid from your previous container and position it under the radiator.

Step 12: Reopen your petcock or valve (usually found at the base of the radiator) and let the mixture drain.

Step 13: After draining completely, close your petcock or radiator valve.

Step 14: Remove the filled container and drain it once more. (You’ll be using your container again)

Step 15: Fill your radiator with water. Although this is the second time you’re doing this, it’s important that you keep on repeating this process to clean your radiator from gunk and mineral deposits completely.

Step 16: Start your engine once more but this time, let it idle for just around five minutes.

Step 17: Turn off your engine and once again, using your container, drain the water from your radiator. Remember to close your petcock or valve completely after draining your radiator.

Step 18: Bring out your coolant or antifreeze bottle and follow the instructions specified in your owner’s manual. Most vehicles require a 50-50 mix of coolant and water. If, however, your owner’s manual states otherwise, then follow its instructions to a tee.

Step 19: Replace your radiator cap.

If you’ve followed all the 19 steps listed in this post, then congratulations! You have just successfully flushed out your cooling system.

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How to Recharge a Dead Battery

A car’s batteries were designed to last a minimum of five years. If your car’s battery lasted longer than that, then it only means you’re taking good care of your car. There are a number of factors which could affect the battery’s life. Some of the main causes may be:

1. Poor maintenance

2. Faulty car parts which demand more from the battery

3. The deterioration of battery cables and posts which could lead to battery damage

4. The use of additional parts that makes use of the electricity generated by the battery

5. Leaving the car running idly for long periods of time

6. Severe cold

7. Bad habits such as leaving the radio or the lights on unnecessarily

If your battery lasted shorter than five years, some of the reason above may have affected the lifespan of your vehicle. A dead battery has no hopes of being used again while a battery without enough power to start the engine is another thing. If your battery falls under the latter, there is still hope that you can resurrect your battery. If you’re battery is as dead as the Sahara dessert, you should take the time to replace your battery with a new one. Also, check the battery tray. Here’s a good replacement battery tray for you.

To determine if your battery still has some hope to be used again, simply recharge it through normal vehicle operation. If you find yourself having to jump the battery again and again, it only means you have to buy a new battery. You can do so by looking for a replacement battery.

Visit our trusted The Parts Bin store and search your car’s model.

Here are some steps to help you in jumpstarting your car’s battery. A second fully-functioning vehicle is needed to make this procedure a successful one, along with a set of jumper cables. Always remember that there is a danger in doing this procedure so extreme caution must be taken:

1. Before charging the car, open the hood and inspect the battery for any signs of damage.

2. Check all the cables attached to the battery are secure and free of any signs of corrosion. If there are any loose cables tighten them. If your battery cables show signs of corrosion, loosen the clamps and clean the cables with a stiff-bristled brush.

3. Position the vehicle to be jumpstarted next to the second vehicle. Make sure the cables are close enough to connect the two vehicles together.

4. Shut off the vehicle being used to jumpstart your battery.

5. Open the hoods of the two vehicles.

6. Identify which are the positive and negative terminals on each battery.

7. One end of the red jumper cable should be attached to a positive terminal of one car while the other end should also be attached to the positive terminal of the other car.

8. Take the one end of the black jumper cable and attach it to the battery’s negative terminal. The other end of the lack jumper cable should be attached to the negative terminal of the other car’s battery. At this point, sparks will emit from the battery but fear not because this is normal.

9. Turn the engine of the charger vehicle and rev it.

10. After revving the charger vehicle for a few minutes, start the car that’s being charged. If the engine would not start, adjust the cables and make sure they are attached firmly.

11. Once the car being charged starts, it should be kept running for at least 20 to 30 minutes for the alternator to have enough time to recharge the battery.

12. After charging the failed battery for at least 20 to 30 minutes, turn off the engine.

13. Remove the jumper cables in reverse order from which you first attached them.

14. Remove the black jumper from the negative terminal of the charger vehicle.

15. Remove the black charger from the battery that was charged.

16. Remove the red jumper cable from the positive terminal on the charger vehicle.

17. Remove the other end of the red jumper cable from the positive terminal of the battery that was charged.

18. Return all cables to their designated places and organize the jumper cables used.

The process itself is tedious and extreme caution must be used to handle the operation. If you have any protective gear such as gloves and glasses, it is highly recommended that you use them. Of course, a jumpstarted battery does not last very long and the purchase of a car battery is advisable.

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Remove Car Odor in Easy Steps

It’s really a bother if you get into your Nissan car, start the engine, turn on the radio for music, switch on the air conditioning system for a cool ride, and bang! You are suddenly welcomed by an awful smell! You think twice, you check the soles of your shoes, check almost every inch of your Nissan ride and you find nothing. Then it gradually becomes apparent that the only culprit left for that offensive smell is your own Nissan AC condenser. Great! Now you have to drive with the windows down just to be able to breathe in fresh air. You cannot do anything about it as of the moment as you’re already running late as it is. But you have one thing in mind though, you are sure to get rid of that smell yourself as soon as you can.

In that case, if you’re so determined to do the ‘smelly’ job yourself, then let these steps guide you into your getting-rid-of-that-nasty-smell quest.

First things first. If your air conditioning system setting is set to “intake from the outside,” then that may be the problem. Check around your vehicle, and if you see a nasty looking “something” or if you happen to pass through a chemical factory (which rarely happens anyway) or perhaps there is just too much air pollution outside, then you know why you are “enjoying” that dreadful smell. Simply turn your air conditioning off or put its setting to “re-circulate’” and voila, you get your problem solved in no time at all.

To avoid experiencing this again, be sure to keep the setting that way and also keep the coolness to just regular setting. This is because constantly putting it on maximum can leave odor-causing moisture in the system. But if you really insist on setting it to the maximum cool, then be sure to tone it down a bit before you turn off the car. This way, the drying out of the system and the forming of mildew are prevented.

Another quick way is to spray Lysol or any air freshener directly into the vents around the windshield area of the car. Then change the AC setting into “intake from the outside” and leave it at that until you’ve run at least tow miles. After which set, it back to “re-circulate.” The air from the inside is now stronger and thus will flush the Lysol through the system.

Then, on your next oil change or tune up (whichever comes first), be sure to replace your Nissan air filter. The dust, dirt, stagnant waters, and other air pollutants that have accumulated on the air filter may contribute to the car odor.

Lastly, what you could do to keep your Nissan vehicle and its Nissan parts clean and free from nasty odors is to buy a spray that gets rid of the odor and at the same time purifies the air. If you want, you can also get the spray types specifically made for the air conditioning and heating system in vehicles. You just have to spray this directly into the exterior air intake vents as well as inside the air conditioning vents in order to eliminate the car odor.

There you have it folks! Easy steps toward nice and fresh-smelling vehicles!

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Su baru XV Siap Lawan Honda CR-V

Surabaya - Produsen mobil Subaru siap meluncurkan Sport Utility Vehicle (SUV) terbaru pada awal tahun depan. Mobil yang akan bernama Subaru XV itu diproyeksi akan menempati kelas yang sama dengan Honda CR-V.

Presiden Direktur Motor Image yang merupakan pemasok mobil Subaru di kawasan Asia Tenggara, Glenn Tan menjelaskan kalau pihaknya sangat yakin mobil ini akan diterima masyarakat Indonesia.

"Kami sangat yakin, dengan program CKD mobil ini, kami yakin bisa menempatkan Subaru XV ke tingkat harga yang kompetitif," ungkapnya di sela-sela pembukaan showroom Subaru di Surabaya, Minggu (10/7/2011).

"Harganya akan sangat kompetitif bila dibanding mobil Subaru yang sekarang kita bawa dari Jepang. Mobil ini akan masuk C-segmen seperti Honda CR-V, untuk harga kita lihat pas peluncuran, karena akan sangat tergantung pada nilai tukar yen," urainya.

Seperti diketahui, Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd. (FHI) yang merupakan prinsipal Subaru di Jepang beberapa hari lalu mengumumkan telah menandatangani nota kesepahaman (MOU) untuk mulai memproduksi mobil di Malaysia dengan Grup Tan Chong.

Dalam kontrak tersebut, FHI dan TC Subaru Sdn. Bhd yang merupakan distributor kendaraan Subaru di Malaysia sepakat untuk memulai produksi mobil Subaru pada Oktober 2012 di fasilitas produksi yang ada di Tan Chong Motor Assemblies Sdn. Bhd (TCMA) dengan kapasitas produksi 5.000 unit per tahun.

Dan mobil yang akan diproduksi adalah Subaru XV. Dengan dirakit di Malaysia dan dibawa masuk dalam bentuk CKD ke Indonesia, diperkirakan harga Subaru XV tidak akan semahal bila diboyong dari Jepang sebab ada perjanjian perdagangan bebas diantara negara0negara di Asean.

Untuk mesinnya, Subaru XV menurut Glenn akan mengusung mesin 2.0 bertransmisi otomatis. Selain itu, seperti halnya mobil Subaru lain, mobil ini juga akan mengusung sistem penggerak semua roda alias All Wheel Drive.

Buka Diler di Surabaya

Sebagai pemain baru di Surabaya, Motor Image sebagai distributor Subaru tidak muluk-muluk untuk pasang target penjualan. Subaru hanya menargetkan penjualan 10 unit untuk tiap bulannya.

"Diharapkan penjualan dapat terus meningkat karena kami berani membuka dealer di Surabaya dengan alasan Surabaya merupakan kota terbesar kedua di Indonesia," ujar Glenn Tan.

Selain kota besar kedua, Glenn yakin dengan pertumbuhan ekonomi Surabaya yang terus meningkat. Apalagi harga Subaru ke depan akan lebih murah karena tidak langsung didatangkan secara built up dari Jepang.

"Kalau untuk nasional targetnya 120 mobil untuk semester I tahun 2011," tambah Glenn.

Untuk khalayak Surabaya, Subaru sendiri akan memperkenalkan sedikitnya 4 mobil andalannya yakni Impreza, Exiga, Forester, Legacy dan Outback. Untuk sedan Impreza akan dibanderol dengan harga Rp 348 - Rp 853 juta, untuk Exiga yang masuk ranah mobil MPV dibanderol dengan harga Rp 412 - Rp 540 juta.

Untuk SUV Forester dibanderol dengan harga Rp 440 - Rp 532 juta, sedan Legacy dibanderol Rp 821 juta dan untuk high MPV seperti Outback dibanderol dengan harga Rp 731 - Rp 813 juta.

"Showroom di Surabaya merupakan yang keempat setelah Batam, Pondok Indah dan Kelapa Gading," lanjut Glenn.

Dalam bulan ini, IMI juga akan membuka showroom nya di Bali. Showroom-showroom tersebut merupakan rangkaian dari 20 showroom yang bakal dibuka IMI hingga akhir tahun 2012.

Syubhan Akib,Imam Wahyudiyanta - detikOto

Redaksi: redaksi[at]detikoto.com

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